Problem Diagnosis

The distributor drive shaft problem has been diagnosed:

The shaft lies too high in the hole, so the teeth are not engaging the crankshaft. I need to find the timing so that the teeth lie above eachother and then a tap of a mallet so that they fall into place. How to position them above eachother is a mystery..all I know is that the distributor drive shaft has to be lowered down about 1cm so that its teeth successfully engage the teeth in the crankshaft.

Chris

:( engine problem!

So it all started as I tried to insert the distributor in the case. The engine was at TDC for cylinder 1 but after reading on the internet from a very helpful source, I found out that the 'tangs' of the distributor drive shaft had to be at 180 degrees, (horizontal)

I tried to rotate the distributor drive shaft by turning the flywheel clockwise but it would not move!

This means that the teeth that connect it to the cranckshaft must have be chipped and/or eroded down.

This is quite a setback as I planned on starting the engine very soon but now I must lift up the distributor drive shaft and replace it with a new one. The shaft just won't move, even though it's at its normal height. The teeth must be gone and so I now need to buy a new one...

please comment and let me knw you are reading this.

Chris

Engine photos and mock up

These photos show the engine mock up (above) and as it was before everything was put on. I sprayed most of the components white to keep the engine as cool as possible but this might not have been such a good idea as every speck of dirt will show instantly. Maybe in the future, I'll paint it factory black again..

I also gave the engine a good clean with a wire brush which was really usefull. I just hope the shiny metal won't oxidise again to a darker colour.

I also inserted the distributor but I'm not sure if its in properly as when cylinder 1 was at TBC, the pulley wheel was not where it was ment to be (the notch directly in the centre on the case). So now when I turn the flywheel with a spanner, the rotor arm does not seem to move so something must be wrong.....any help??

Another thing is that my carb is one of a 1600cc bus, It's too big for my single port so I need to find a way to arrange that.

The next thing that needs to be done is an engine flush to remove all carbon and dirt deposits in the engine block and I must find a way to fix my distributor in properly.

please feel free to comment.

Chris

Ignition!

These are my newly purchased set of ignition leads (16euros).



The Complete distributor!



This is the single vacuum distributor with rotar arm and distributor cap visible. I gave the distributor a good wipe and fitted the cap on above.





This is the ignition coil after being sprayed


The next post shall show the painting of the valves covers and a mock-up of the igniton setup.

:)

Spraying the type 1 'doghouse' oil cooler

The above photo is the doghouse oil cooler after its been sprayed white. I chose white as it is a colour which dissipates heat and so the oil is cooled more efficiently. I now have to bypass it as it cant stand vertical as it is ment to on the engine. The reason being that it will cause too much drag and apparently (as I read on the internet) that cylinder number 3 does not get as cooled as the other ones due to the presence of the oil cooler. The presumed reason is that the air that pases through the oil cooler get heated and then passes over cylinder three. The hot air that passes over that cylinder is obviosly not efficient at cooling.

The next blog will about the process involved in bypassing the oil cooler..

Chris